Computer and Controls |
|
Computer
The original computer used on the first servo drive trial table was a $25 hand-me-down that turned out to be a 1995 Cyrix 6x86 133MHz. This was plenty fast for using TurboCNC as the controller. TurbocCNC can be operated on an ancient 486, so getting started in CNC does not mandate a new computer. Mach2/3 requires at least Windows XP. An entry level 2004 Compaq w/ AMD Sempron with 256 MB SDRAM is still used here with Mach2, and it works fine. This is mentioned because there once was concern about the processing power required, but now even new cheap computers are fast enough. This shop is still using Mach2 because Mach3 requires a faster graphics card than the old Compaq has. Often a newer faster computer is used in the home-office for the CAD work, and an older computer is used in the dust of the shop. The g-code files can be transferred by flash drives when the shop computer is not networked. Laptops are not always suitable for CNC because of their power management systems and lower parallel port voltage. Also note that screen savers and other background processes can interfere with the controlling software. |
|
Pendant
The unit resting on the back of the monitor is a USB numeric keypad. This serves as an inexpensive pendant that controls each axis. It is in a sandwich bag to protect it from dust. A wireless keypad was tried as a pendant. However, its lack of consistency made it unsafe for all but the most basic moves. The wired keypad has received the most use because it is dependable. The keyboard and pendant arrow keys, 4, 8, 6, and 2, move the X and Y axes. The Page Up and Page Down keys move the Z axis in Mach.
Numeric keypad as pendant.
With Mach's Keygrabber, the keypad can be programmed to do a couple of other functions without tying up standard keys. |
|
Auxiliary Relay The right image is a simple relay
circuit that
utilizes a 2N7000 FETlington. Their use
simplifies the wiring of the relay. A 5 volt relay can be powered from the 5v PC power supply lead. This relay can in turn activate a higher current relay or HVAC contactor that controls the spindle, vacuum or other device. The diode is a 1N4006, but anything in that ball park will work. |
The relays, diodes and FETs all came from mouser.com. They ship in
small quantities.
It is important to note that when shutting down the controlling software, the parallel port pin that controls the spindle's relay can change state and turn on the spindle. This happened here, and was resolved by placing a manual master switch, as well as a master relay switch, between the 5v from the computer and the bank of relays. There is also a manual switch between the router-spindle and its relay controlled power supply. Also included is a pilot light that indicates when the relay is activated. Do not trust the electronics to always control the spindle. Manual overrides save jobs and fingers. |
|
First Setup
The electrical components of this shop's first servo system were initially screwed to a piece of scrap plywood. (Stepper systems as used in the plans are available as packages and do not necessarily require the work shown here.) The cord that attached the computer to the drives was a standard printer cable with a Centronics connector at the printer end, and a DB25 connector at the computer end. The break-out board such as it is, is simply a Centronics receptacle from a dead printer soldered to some terminal strips. Note the DB25 printer cable pin order does not correlate 1 to 1 with Centronics. Pins 1 through 14 match but then they diverge for some reason. Only pins 1 through 17 are usually used, so there may be no need to connect anymore than these. It seems that the other connections from 18 to 25 vary among manufacturers, so be sure to check your own cables before soldering. Package stepper systems do not require this work. The cables and receptacles are already assembled. The components were moved to enclosures once it was clear that everything was working well.
Gecko 320s with terminal strips.
Terminal strips with Centronics receptacle.
Connection pin numbers.
|
|
Drive Enclosures
Here are some pictures of different drive and power supply enclosures that have been used over the years. Experience has taught that big boxes make work much easier. The cases from old computers and home electronics are good raw materials for enclosures. The components were initially put in panel boxes as shown on the top right, but the space was too tight for the relays, so a computer case was used. Second image on right. The boxes below are made of scrap plywood, counter-top laminate, 1/8" tempered hardboard, and yup, that is an old speaker grill used as a vent cover.
Homemade drive box.
Homemade power supply box.
Though not obvious in the photos, there are vent holes at each end of the boxes so air can pass over the components. The boxes are not going to win any awards, but boxes, however crude and simple, are definitely a worthwhile ounce of prevention. These last two images are of the cheapest drive and power supply box you will find. It is a plastic shoe box with the components fastened to the lid, now the base of the box. Holes were drilled in the side of the clear plastic top to allow air to be inhaled and exhausted by the fan, which blows directly over the drive board. The steppers are plugged into the receptacles that are mounted on the lid. The entire assembly hangs off the back of the computer station or the machines by the keyhole hooks made of hardboard. This hanging orientation keeps dust from falling into the fan holes, and permits the wires to hang without the potential for bending fatigue.
Panel boxes hold drives.
Computer cabinet control box.
Cabinet with fan vent.
Here is the g-code for the fan vent.
Cover made from shoe box.
Holes permit air circulation.
|
The right image is a simple relay
circuit that
utilizes a 2N7000 FETlington. Their use
simplifies the wiring of the relay.