Light Stand • Video
G-Code, DXF and Printable Templates
The scaling can be checked with the dimensions of the bounding boxes on the templates. All bounding boxes are 7½ by 10 inches.
The gcode and dxf files work on my systems but they may not be compatible with others.
This one is CNC cut, but it could be cut with a jig saw. The base is designed to fit on the 18x24 machine and to be cut from one piece of plywood. Here it is being cut with a ¼ inch straight bit.
The hold down bridges are cut and the edges are sanded. Holes are drilled in the slots for screws. The parts are glued and screwed into the slots in the base and cap.
The conduit can be installed directly in the recess in the base. The holes for the conduit may need to be enlarged; the fit is tight.In this video a box is put on the bottom so the light’s cord can run inside the conduit, which helps to de-clutter the unit.
Two holes are drilled in the side of the handy box. An 1/8 inch thick section of stock, a paint paddle will work, is cut to fit the box, and is drilled to match the box. It raises the box from the base enough for the cover to fit.
The center hole is knocked out on the side opposite the drilled holes. The conduit to box connector is installed.A ten foot length of conduit can be cut into two pieces for the mast and boom. This one has 65 inch mast and a 55 inch boom. The conduit is slid into the connector and vertically aligned. And the box is screwed to the base.
Secure the cord’s outlet in the clamp. Separate the wires and strip the insulation. Put the cable clamp in the box cover. For appearance it can be installed with the clamping screws inside the cover. A bushing can also be installed if desired. Put the wire through the cover and wire-nut the extension cord together. Make sure to match the cord’s marks. Install the cover.
A plate cut from thin stock and attached to the EMT with straps or clamps gives the clip a surface to grip. The plate’s screws can be positioned so they are inside the clamp as shown. This prevents the lamp’s clip from sliding off of the wood.Adding standoffs to the screws on the lamp’s clamps can make it easier to access the wing-nuts. A section of pipe, tube or a larger nut can be used as a spacer.
This is not possible with some lamps because the ball joint is part of the spring clip. In this case a good enough ball joint can be made. Tighten three nuts and a washer on a quarter twenty by 1-¼ inch screw as shown. Grind, file or sand the nut that abuts the screw-head so its corners are smoother.Put the screw in a conduit to cable connector and tighten the clamp against the nut on the screw. Tighten the screw head and nut in the lamp’s clamp. Put the assembly on the end of the EMT boom. This allows a range of movement and can be tightened to hold position.
The boom is installed with a clamp. This is addressed in the second video. The boom is balanced with a counter- weight, which is addressed in the third video.There is more information about this stand on my website, Solsylva.com.
Thanks for watching!