Table Clamp • Video

Table Clamp
Table Clamp
Table Clamp
Clamp with Mast
Table Clamp Video


G-Code, DXF and Printable Templates

The template can be printed on 8-1/2 by 11 inch paper. It is sized on a one to one scale. The scaling can be checked with the dimensions of the bounding box on the template.

Video Transcript

This video is about a clamp that attaches a stand to the edge of a table-top. The clamp is sturdy, inexpensive and uses home-center components.

The prototype was hand cut from plywood and hardboard. It is based on traditional woodworking clamps. The jaws can be angled so the clamp can hold to oddly shaped edges. Here the clamp is attached to a waterfall countertop.

The two screws are adjusted so the clamp can fit on different thicknesses. The outside screw holds the clamp apart, and the inside screw pulls the clamp together.

The unit is simple and can be cut with hand tools. It does not need to have the curved profile that the CNC cut version has.

A 5 by 8 inch piece of ½ inch ply is cut and screwed to the CNC bed. The machine cuts all of the parts in a few minutes. The hold-down bridges are cut, and the pieces are removed and sanded.
The knob is attached to a quarter-twenty by 4 inch carriage bolt with a nut and washer. The nut needs to be very tight. Thread locker is helpful.

A ¼-20 x ¾ inch carriage bolt is put in the recess in the larger end of the three holed top plate. A washer and rod coupler are tightened to the screw.

The thumb wheel has a 1/4-20 tee nut pulled into it. A bolt with a nut and washer are tightened to embed the tee nut.

A tee nut is put in the recess in the plate that holds the rod coupler by the same process. A tee nut is also installed next to the rod coupler. It is on the side opposite the tee-nut in the end. The top plate is now complete.

A ¼-20 x ¾ inch carriage bolt or screw is put in the end hole in the bottom plate. It needs to freewheel. A washer is put on the bolt, and the thumb wheel is attached with the tee nut toward the bolt.
The thumb wheel is turned until it touches the washer, and is then backed off so the wheel and bolt can turn. Thread locker is applied to this junction.

A quarter-twenty by 2-1/2 inch carriage bolt is threaded through the top plate as shown. It is then tightened into the thumb wheel. Check that the wheel can turn easily, and tighten the bolts and tee nut together. Thread locker helps to secure this joint.

Two washers are put on the carriage bolt on the larger knob, and the bolt is slid through the bottom hole and threaded into the tee nut on the top of the top plate.

This clamp uses ½ inch EMT conduit as the mast or post. It is held in place with a threaded rod that is attached to the rod coupler. A washer that fits over the rod, and inside the EMT is put on the rod. A nut and washer are installed near the top of the rod.
These washers help to center the conduit on the rod. The conduit is slid over the rod and washers.

The top is secured with a wing-nut and larger washer. A camera or mic base can be attached to the top of the rod instead of the wing-nut.

Pads can be put on the clamp. These were cut from a dollar store place mat. The resilience of the pad helps the clamp to grip, and it protects the table top.

A clamp and boom can be attached to the EMT mast. I have posted directions for the adjustable mast to boom clamp in the second video in the light stand series.

This tabletop clamp is simple, inexpensive and serves well. Drawings and gcodes are on my website,
Thanks for watching!


This table clamp uses conduit for the mast.
The light stand boom clamp can be used with this table clamp's mast.

The lamp stand, the lamp stand clamp, and the counterweight on YouTube work with half inch EMT.